SURF NUSA LEMBONGAN

Surfing and Mindfulness

Today at We Surf Nusa Lembongan we are going to talk about the connection between surfing and mindfulness. Both of these subjects are becoming more popular by the day. In an ideal world, they are interconnected, however we can not surf without being mindful. Surfing should be a wonderful and fun experience where we enjoy waves, share waves and support each other. While remembering to respect the natural order and etiquette in the lineup.

Unfortunately, mindfulness is not always present in the surfing world so you will sometimes find accidents or aggression in the surf. But let's look at the positive aspect and break it down for you. So what is mindfulness? Mindfulness is when we turn on our consciousness and our awareness of the actions we are doing. So instead of simply doing things, we are now becoming aware of what we are doing.

Through this process, the action becomes not only more meaningful but also the interactions become more harmonious. The beauty is that we can apply this to everything. Now let's see how it works when we use it to surf.

A New Idea We Surf Lembongan

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two surfers in the water giving a high five

Look Inside, Look Outside

It starts before we even enter the water. First, we can be mindful of how our bodies, mind, and emotions are today. Is there tension in the body or are we relaxed? Do we feel strong or do we feel weakness in the body? How is our mind? Are we calm or agitated? What are our emotions doing? For example, we may feel nervous or excited; maybe there is some fear or pressure. We become aware and do our best to notice what is present without judgment. We look around and more importantly, in front of us. Watch the ocean; you become more aware of what is happening out

there every day.

It is helpful how technology is supporting us here. We have all these surf forecasts available, however mother nature is always unpredictable. To know what is present, we need to watch. What is the size of the waves? What is the quality that is present? Is it glassy or choppy? Are they peeling or closing out? What direction is the sweep running out back and how is the wind affecting the waves? Can I notice if strong current is present, and if so, in what direction is it going? What tides do the waves in front of us work the best? What board would work best for today?

big wave starting to form with one surfer watching in nusa lembongan

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STAY PATIENT

Of course, this takes time and patience to

master the skill, but it all starts with mindfulness.

Ask yourself humbly if this spot is suitable for your skill level. Not only to keep

yourself, but also others safe in the water.

Surf Safely - Have More Fun!

surfer boy looking down at his board with we surf lembongan boat in background

female surfer watching a set wave approach in nusa lembongan

Time to Surf Nusa Lembongan

Once you have decided to surf, apply this mindfulness throughout your surfing and see how it changes everything. We would like to mention that simply greeting the ocean, asking for some fun out there and thanking the ocean when you leave can enhance your experience even more. When you are in the ocean embrace yourself in mother nature and be at her joy and mercy. Ideally, becoming one with her and riding her waves as if you were part of her. But let's not get too spiritual today, even though we believe surfing is a spiritual practice. You hit the water, notice the temperature, and now you can notice if what you observed is correct. Is there current, and in what direction is it going?

Either way, greeting people with a smile and congratulating them on a nice wave can make a world of difference. Be mindful of where you choose your spot and sit for a moment to find your place in the lineup. Through mindfulness, you will become respectful of whose turn is when. Once more, check in with yourself. What energy am I bringing into the water?

As you are making your way to the lineup, notice every paddle stroke you make and what the efficiency of your paddling is. Are you just trying to race out there, maybe even wasting energy, or are you finding your perfect efficient rhythem?

Getting closer to the waves, watch how many people are out there and notice where they are sitting and why? Who are the ones catching the waves, and what are they doing differently compared to the ones not getting any? As you enter the crowded or, hopefully for you, uncrowded spot, feel the energy in the water. Are the people having fun? Sharing waves and stoke, or does it seem more like a battle zone where everyone is fighting for the waves and dropping in on each other?

Make Your Choice .....

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YOUR TURN

Once it is your turn and you decide to commit to taking the wave, apply mindfulness in every millisecond as there is so much happening in these moments. The way you paddle, the way you angle your board, the way you look at the wave approaching and know when to stop looking back and change the focus to the direction you want to go when you take off. Double checking you are not dropping in on anyone and then popping up in the exact right moment. Now, once you are on your feet, just feel the wave. What is it doing, and what can I do? Notice if you need more speed or if you are outracing her. What is the wave offering you, whether it is a deep barrel, some wonderful magnificent turns, or just simply a cruisy ride? Once you have finished your wave, apply what you have observed earlier. Such as, what is the best way to get back to the lineup?

surfer guy catching his first wave during his first surf in nusa lembongan

Is there a channel that will make it more effortless, or do you need to duck-dive your way back?

Don't go straight for the next wave. Instead, enjoy what you just had and wait for your turn so everyone will all have fun together. It is one of these sports where your mind can get in the way, and many of you might have experienced a good session that can leave you almost in ecstasy where you can't seem to stop smiling, while a bad one can make you frustrated for the rest of your day. So ask yourself, why am I surfing? What is the reason I do this? And hopefully, in that answer, you will find it is for the love of the ocean and the joy of sharing the fun out there. So notice if, through mindfulness, you become less competitive and not so harsh with yourself. Thank the ocean once you have finished your session.

Stay Salty

Stay Mindful