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Buying Your First Surfboard: A Journey into Surfing

Buying Your First Surfboard

You are now a surfer and ready to buy your very first surfboard.

Buying Your First Surfboard: A Journey into Surfing

Embarking on the journey of buying your first surfboard is an exciting milestone in a surfer’s life, marking the transition from a beachgoer to a true water enthusiast. The process involves much more than simply picking out a board; it is a blend of understanding surfboard types, considering personal needs and goals, and delving into the nuances of board materials and design. This essay explores the essential factors to consider when purchasing your first surfboard, including board types, sizing, and practical considerations, to help you make an informed and satisfying choice.

Understanding Surfboard Types

The world of surfboards is diverse, with various types designed to cater to different skill levels, wave conditions, and surfing styles. For beginners, the most common types are soft-top boards, foam boards, and longboards. Soft-top boards, often referred to as “foamies,” are ideal for novices due to their buoyant, forgiving nature. The soft top provides additional safety, reducing the risk of injury during falls and collisions. These boards offer excellent stability, making them perfect for learning balance and basic paddling techniques.

Longboards

Longboards are another excellent option for beginners. Ranging from 8 to 9 feet in length, longboards are known for their stability and ease of paddling. They allow for a more relaxed style of surfing, ideal for catching small to medium waves and improving fundamental skills. Their length and shape provide ample time to practice standing up and maintaining balance on

the board.

Board Sizing and Volume

When selecting a surfboard, size and volume play critical roles in performance and comfort. For beginners, a larger board with more volume is generally recommended. Volume, which is a measure of a board’s buoyancy, affects how easily the board floats and paddles. A board with more volume is easier to float on, making it simpler to catch waves and maintain balance. Typically, a board that is 8 to 9 feet long, 22 to 24 inches wide, and has a thickness of around 3 inches is ideal for beginners. The dimensions of a board should be matched to the surfer’s weight and height. For instance, a larger person may require a longer and wider board compared to a smaller individual. It’s important to consider the board’s weight capacity and ensure that it provides adequate flotation for the rider. Consulting a surf shop expert or using an online board size calculator can

provide additional guidance tailored to your specific needs.


MATERIALS AND DESIGN

Surfboards are made from various materials, each offering different benefits. Foam boards are typically made from a foam core with a soft, textured outer layer. They are lightweight, durable, and less expensive, making them an ideal choice for beginners.

FIBERGLASS BOARDS

On the other hand, fiberglass boards, which have a foam core encased in a fiberglass and resin shell, are more durable and offer better performance. These boards are often preferred by more experienced surfers due to their responsiveness and speed but can be more fragile and expensive.

DESIGN AND PERFORMANCE

The design of the surfboard also impacts its performance. A board with a wider nose and tail provides more stability, while a narrower outline allows for greater maneuverability. The rocker, or the curve of the board from nose to tail, influences how easily the board can handle different

types of waves. Boards with more rocker are better suited for steeper, more powerful waves, whereas boards with less rocker perform well in flatter, less aggressive conditions.

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS

When purchasing a surfboard, practical considerations such as budget, storage, and maintenance should also be taken into account. Surfboards can range significantly in price, from budget-friendly foam boards to high-end custom fiberglass models. For beginners, it’s often best to start with a more affordable option and invest in a higher-quality board as skills progress. Storage and transportation are additional factors to consider. surfboards are relatively fragile and can be easily damaged if not properly stored. Investing in a board bag or cover can protect your surfboard from dings, UV damage, and other hazards. Additionally, ensure you have a suitable vehicle or means of transporting the board to and from the beach.

Conclusions

Buying your first surfboard is a significant step in your surfing journey, requiring careful consideration of various factors to ensure you make the right choice. By understanding the different types of surfboards, considering board size and volume, and evaluating materials and design, you can select a board that aligns with your skill level, surfing goals, and personal preferences. Additionally, taking practical considerations into account, such as budget and storage, will enhance your overall surfing experience. Ultimately, the right surfboard will provide the foundation for many exciting and fulfilling waves to come, making your entry into the world of surfing both enjoyable and memorable.

Go Out and Shred
Feel the Stoke
New Surfboards are Magic

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A Journey of Learning to Surf

Embracing Waves: A Journey of Learning to Surf

A JOURNEY OF LEARNING TO SURF

For many, the ocean is a vast and mysterious realm, its waves both mesmerizing and intimidating. It’s a place where adventure beckons, where the unknown waits to be explored. And for those willing to take the plunge, learning to surf can be a transformative experience—a journey of self-discovery that unfolds amidst the ebb and flow of the tide.

Learning to surf is more than just mastering a new skill; it’s about embracing the unknown and stepping outside of your comfort zone. For me, the journey began with a mix of excitement and trepidation, as I stood on the shore, gazing out at the endless expanse of the ocean. The waves seemed to taunt me, their rhythmic cadence both alluring and daunting.

01


EMBRACE THE UNKNOWN


As I waded into the water for the first time, I was fortunate to have a knowledgeable instructor by my side. Their guidance was invaluable, helping me navigate the basics of surfing—the proper stance, how to paddle, and how to read the waves. With their encouragement, I slowly began to find my footing, gaining confidence with each passing day.

THE IMPORTANCE OF A MENTOR

02


MENTORSHIP

 03


PERSISTANCE

A Journey of Learning to Surf

Learning to surf is not for the faint of heart. It requires patience, determination, and a willingness to fail. There were countless moments of frustration and exhaustion, where every wave seemed to send me crashing back to shore. But through it all, I refused to give up. With each tumble, I learned something new, honing my skills and inching closer to mastery.

Finding Freedom in the Waves


And then, one day, it happened—the moment I had been waiting for. As I paddled out past the breaking waves, I felt a swell rising beneath me, lifting my board with an exhilarating force. With a surge of adrenaline, I rose to my feet, feeling the wind in my hair and the spray of saltwater on my face. In that fleeting moment, I was free—free from doubt, free from fear, free to embrace the boundless beauty of the sea.

 04


LIFELONG JOURNEY

Learning to surf is not a destination but a journey—one that continues long after you’ve caught your first wave. It’s a journey of growth and self-discovery, filled with highs and lows, triumphs and setbacks. But through it all, one thing remains constant—the inexorable pull of the ocean, drawing us back again and again in search of adventure and enlightenment.

In the end, learning to surf is not just about riding waves; it’s about riding the currents of life with grace and resilience. It’s about facing challenges head-on, embracing failure as a stepping stone to success, and finding beauty in the chaos of the unknown. So if you’ve ever dreamed of learning to surf, don’t wait. Take the plunge, embrace the waves, and discover the incredible journey that awaits you beneath the surface of the sea.

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Surf Nusa Lembongan – Surfing and Mindfulness

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SURF NUSA LEMBONGAN

SURF NUSA LEMBONGAN

Surfing and Mindfulness

Today at We Surf Nusa Lembongan we are going to talk about the connection between surfing and mindfulness. Both of these subjects are becoming more popular by the day. In an ideal world, they are interconnected, however we can not surf without being mindful. Surfing should be a wonderful and fun experience where we enjoy waves, share waves and support each other. While remembering to respect the natural order and etiquette in the lineup.

Unfortunately, mindfulness is not always present in the surfing world so you will sometimes find accidents or aggression in the surf. But let’s look at the positive aspect and break it down for you. So what is mindfulness? Mindfulness is when we turn on our consciousness and our awareness of the actions we are doing. So instead of simply doing things, we are now becoming aware of what we are doing.


Through this process, the action becomes not only more meaningful but also the interactions become more harmonious. The beauty is that we can apply this to everything. Now let’s see how it works when we use it to surf.

A New Idea We Surf Lembongan

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SURF NUSA LEMBONGAN

Look Inside, Look Outside

It starts before we even enter the water. First, we can be mindful of how our bodies, mind, and emotions are today. Is there tension in the body or are we relaxed? Do we feel strong or do we feel weakness in the body? How is our mind? Are we calm or agitated? What are our emotions doing? For example, we may feel nervous or excited; maybe there is some fear or pressure. We become aware and do our best to notice what is present without judgment. We look around and more importantly, in front of us. Watch the ocean; you become more aware of what is happening out

there every day.

It is helpful how technology is supporting us here. We have all these surf forecasts available, however mother nature is always unpredictable. To know what is present, we need to watch. What is the size of the waves? What is the quality that is present? Is it glassy or choppy? Are they peeling or closing out? What direction is the sweep running out back and how is the wind affecting the waves? Can I notice if strong current is present, and if so, in what direction is it going? What tides do the waves in front of us work the best? What board would work best for today?

STAY PATIENT

Of course, this takes time and patience to

master the skill, but it all starts with mindfulness.

Ask yourself humbly if this spot is suitable for your skill level. Not only to keep

yourself, but also others safe in the water.

  • Surf Safely – Have More Fun!

Time to Surf Nusa Lembongan

Once you have decided to surf, apply this mindfulness throughout your surfing and see how it changes everything. We would like to mention that simply greeting the ocean, asking for some fun out there and thanking the ocean when you leave can enhance your experience even more. When you are in the ocean embrace yourself in mother nature and be at her joy and mercy. Ideally, becoming one with her and riding her waves as if you were part of her. But let’s not get too spiritual today, even though we believe surfing is a spiritual practice. You hit the water, notice the temperature, and now you can notice if what you observed is correct. Is there current, and in what direction is it going? 

Either way, greeting people with a smile and congratulating them on a nice wave can make a world of difference. Be mindful of where you choose your spot and sit for a moment to find your place in the lineup. Through mindfulness, you will become respectful of whose turn is when. Once more, check in with yourself. What energy am I bringing into the water? 

As you are making your way to the lineup, notice every paddle stroke you make and what the efficiency of your paddling is. Are you just trying to race out there, maybe even wasting energy, or are you finding your perfect efficient rhythem?

Getting closer to the waves, watch how many people are out there and notice where they are sitting and why? Who are the ones catching the waves, and what are they doing differently compared to the ones not getting any? As you enter the crowded or, hopefully for you, uncrowded spot, feel the energy in the water. Are the people having fun? Sharing waves and stoke, or does it seem more like a battle zone where everyone is fighting for the waves and dropping in on each other?

Make Your Choice …..

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SURF NUSA LEMBONGAN

YOUR TURN

Once it is your turn and you decide to commit to taking the wave, apply mindfulness in every millisecond as there is so much happening in these moments. The way you paddle, the way you angle your board, the way you look at the wave approaching and know when to stop looking back and change the focus to the direction you want to go when you take off. Double checking you are not dropping in on anyone and then popping up in the exact right moment. Now, once you are on your feet, just feel the wave. What is it doing, and what can I do? Notice if you need more speed or if you are outracing her. What is the wave offering you, whether it is a deep barrel, some wonderful magnificent turns, or just simply a cruisy ride? Once you have finished your wave, apply what you have observed earlier. Such as, what is the best way to get back to the lineup?

Is there a channel that will make it more effortless, or do you need to duck-dive your way back?

Don’t go straight for the next wave. Instead, enjoy what you just had and wait for your turn so everyone will all have fun together. It is one of these sports where your mind can get in the way, and many of you might have experienced a good session that can leave you almost in ecstasy where you can’t seem to stop smiling, while a bad one can make you frustrated for the rest of your day. So ask yourself, why am I surfing? What is the reason I do this? And hopefully, in that answer, you will find it is for the love of the ocean and the joy of sharing the fun out there. So notice if, through mindfulness, you become less competitive and not so harsh with yourself. Thank the ocean once you have finished your session.

Stay Salty 

Stay Mindful 

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Surfing Ceningan Mahana Point – When to Score this Wave

Surfing Ceningan Mahana Point

WHEN TO SCORE WAVES SURFING

CENINGAN MAHANA POINT

JANUARY 15th, 2022

01


INTRODUCTION

A left hand point break over coral reef. Although tide sensitive, Ceningan can produce some awesome waves.

Mahana Point is a beautiful left hand wave located on Nusa Ceningan. Access is found by crossing the yellow bridge, taking your first right and continuing along to the end of the road.

Here you will find a small warung (restaurant) and the perfect sunset chill spot. Sitting on cliff edge over-looking the wave, there will also be music playing as the sun goes down.

The wave mostly breaks left, however, on higher tides and west swell, there can be a right hander that develops towards the inside of the little bay. Short, sweet and hollow.

The left is fairly mellow, not too fast and can be very long. It is a great wave for intermediates and fun wave for the more advanced surfers when it starts to get big.


A few elements need to come together. First you need the south swell around 200 degrees. Second, you want dead low tide around full or new moons. Third, Next to no wind. Get all three and Ceningan lights up.

Surfing Nusa Lembongan

02


ON A BIG DAY

Surfing Ceningan Mahana Point on a Big Day during Sunset

 03


A FUN LEFT

Ceningan on a good day is super fun and rippable. A great wave for intermediate or advanced level surfers. When it is shoulder high to just overhead in size it will have a mellow, slightly fat takeoff that requires an extra bit of paddle power. The first section of the wave offers up a nice cutback opportunity leading into a few nice walls to hit. About two thirds of the way down it will pick up speed with a hollower section. Using the speed from that you can then hit the last part of the wave, sneaking in a few more turns and combinations before kicking out.

Mahana Point on a Fun Day

“Ceningan for me is a great alternative to get away from the Lembongan waves. More mellow, considerably longer, plus it is a great left hand wave in an area that is known for its right handers” 


Surfing Nusa Ceningan Mahana Point

To try and score Ceningan in these optimal conditions, there are a few things to look for. For swell size, something in the two to four foot or three to five foot range and a period of around 13-15 seconds.

Very light offshore or minimal wind will help keep the wave clean while you should aim for low tides. With too much water, a sidewash develops along the cliff. Unfortunately this pushes right into the takeoff zone and first section.

 04


SCORING IT BIG

Big Days

Ceningan picks up a ton of swell and can be surfed in well overhead conditions. However, scoring Mahana Point when it is big can be tricky.

You really need to choose the right time on big days. From mid to high tide it will start to close out and can wash you down the line quite far.

You want to go on low tide, preferably entering the water right at dead low. The dryer the better, so right around full and new moon will be the best call.

Wave Entrance at Ceningan

Overlooking the end section

Swell also needs to be down in the 200 degrees or less range. If it is too west, the wave becomes a giant closeout. With south swells though, it will hit the reef properly creating a great wave. Fun sections for big turns at the start and then a speed section that will sometimes barrel. The last few parts of the wave will offer up a good lip to hit so you can get a few more turns in before the end section. Best to have a bigger board or a bit more volume here on the big days as the takeoff can be a bit fat. The best set waves here will peel in around the point and run for a few hundred meters easily. Super fun wave when it has some size.

05


THE RIGHT

A Short, Sweet and Hollow Right Hander

As the tide fills in, Ceningan wave will sometimes have a little right hander that breaks. It is usually fast and steep with small barrels on offer if you are lucky.

Not the longest wave by far, but still can be fun. Small to medium sized days are when it typically breaks, however, pay attention as it can be a bit fickle, shallow and can close out fast.

The Right Hander at Ceningan

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Surfing Nusa Lembongan – when to surf in the shoulder season

Surfing Nusa Lembongan

CONDITIONS AND INFORMATION FOR SURFING NUSA LEMBONGAN

JANUARY 7th, 2022

01


START TO THE YEAR

It has not been the best start to the year with almost no swell, however, things should improve.

Conditions have been slow this year for surfing Nusa Lembongan, but we are optimistic it will improve soon. The rainy season has been in full effect for awhile with onshore winds and sloppy waves.

Knee to thigh high has been the case so far favoring the longboarders and stand up paddlers. However, even for the bigger boards, there is not to much on offer.

It has been a bit uncharacteristic for the swell to back off for so long. Even during the wet season, it is normal to see some swells pop up here and there.

The outlook for for the first half of January looks bleak, but we are optimistic we will see some action near the end of the month and into early February.


January 2022 Surf forecast for Shipwrecks wave in Nusa Lembongan.

Forecast by Magicseaweed

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SURF FOREAST

Surfing Trips in Lembongan

 03


EARLY YEAR

The early year outlook remains strong for surfers. Year in and year out from mid February on, the waves typically just get better and better. The wind will usually start backing off as we also start to see the first few swells of the upcoming season. Typically the waves are not too big, but very clean and fun throughout this part of the year (Feb-May). We are eager to see how it shapes up and have high hopes for a great early surf season here in Nusa Lembongan.

Surfing Nusa Ceningan at Sunset

“Great season to surf Nusa Ceningan. Once the winds back off this swell magnet, it can produce super fun and long left hand waves” 


SURFING NUSA CENINGAN

Nusa Ceningan favors a more south facing swell direction. anything around the 200 degree mark tends to line this break up the best. March typically will see some of these south swells that are not too big, providing Ceningan with the mix it likes. Best bet for scoring this wave is to go at low tide. The lower the better. Head high waves will run for a good distance with lots of cutback and turn opportunities along the way.

 04


FINAL OUTLOOK

What to expect for the year moving forward? We are excited for this upcoming shoulder season and of course following that, the swell season.

Expect an average of shoulder high to a little overhead for the better days moving through the next few months. Couple that with traditionally light winds and the forecast looks good.

Swell season usually begins around June, however, we do see some bumps during March and April. If you have a surf trip to Lembongan planned, you can likely get good to very good waves from mid February on.

SURFING NUSA LEMBONGAN

Glassy Waves in Lembongan

As we approach the shoulder season, this is when we start to have those perfect, glassy mornings and evenings. Feb through April we typically have very low winds, especially during sunrise and sunset.

These glassy waves mixed with the ultra clear Lembongan water make for some special surfing sessions. We get mixed onshore/cross/offshore winds during the day, however most of the time, just light winds with little effect on the waves.


SURFING LESSONS LEMBONGAN

Perfect Time for Learning

The upcoming shoulder season is perfect for those of you looking to upgrade your surf skills or try surfing for the first time. The waves are a little smaller and more user friendly, perfect for learning new tricks or catching your first wave.

The other bonus for this time of year is that the crowds are usually smaller too. This gives you a chance to catch more waves per session and progress faster. You may have to be flexible time wise, but the windows will be there.

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